Hello A-Team: Due to the Fandango to the LA Garment District, I cannot publish a regular A-Team email this week. So, I turned the blog over to our most beloved “children.” Enjoy. Joanie
Short YouTube Tutorials about Using Sticky Notes: Another nifty tool found on PC (Windows) computers and often underutilized is the digital version of Post It-like notes, called Sticky Notes.
This week’s picture of previous White House presidential plates and the motivational quote for the week, are as political as I will get. For the future, we need to strive forward knowing that history will find us a place to shine.
This weekend, I am so busy, that I won’t have any time to talk about the classes. All I can tell you …. is that it will be an exciting week.
I have learned that Monday, October 10, is Thanksgiving in Canada. I wish them all a big dinner and to stay warm. I had to call Canada this weekend and found out it was snowing in Calgary. And here we are, in San Diego, where it is vey very warm. Next week, it will get cool. Maybe we will see the temperature dip into the 60’s. The up and down temperatures are sure to continue till November. Even then, it really doesn’t snow in San Diego. Hence, I needed to find a picture that expressed the season as I saw it in Southern California. The leaves are turning colors and Stella, my pussy cat, just loves it. They crackle under her paws and she has been told not to eat the leaves. She has been hanging around me this weekend. I caught a sore throat and had to sleep it off. I am much better, thanks to all that purring in my ears.
Last week, we started making the dress forms conform to our bodies. This week we will finish. I will make sure that you look marvelous. Then it will be time to pad out the dress forms and put the cover on. You will need to bring your cotton upholstery batting, a couple of plastics from a dry cleaners, your sacrificial bra, and your slipcover. By the end of Monday night’s class, your dress form will be all but completed. IF you want to leave your form in the back room, make sure you have Amy’s tags. See the last post. She tells you where to get them.
We are ready to start our Sewing Operations Portfolio Samples. There are still one or 2 more Textile Presentations to present. Some of you have already started working on your upcycling projects. Remember, you need to have hours, the presentation, the samples and the upcycling project for a grade.
Last week, we made 5 master basic sloper patterns out of manila paper. What you didn’t catch, was that there will be 6. Some of you have a one dart sloper front and some of you, have a 2 dart sloper front. In the end, you will all have a one dart and a two dart master basic sloper. I will show you how. The rest of the manila paper I have, will be used for the last sloper. It’s easy. This week, you will practice making knockoffs and I will grade what you have completed, thus far. I checked the pricing of a stamp to remember everything you need to put on a pattern/sloper. Staples wanted $50 for the simple 3 by 5 inch stamp. It was NOT even self-inking. I just can’t do it.
2 weeks ago: we serged and learned some marking techniques. This passed week, I didn’t hold the class. I took off to kill what was brewing before it got really bad. This week, we will finish up all our prep and begin to sew. This is the week, we will get into TLC for the school’s straight stitch sewing machines. I will be back to teaching with a post nasal drip and a cough. The last remnants of what was starting up.
http://www.homeadvisor.com/r/home-hobbies-sewing-resources/ Denise wanted me to share this sewing link with you. Hope you find it useful !!!!! There is alot of information here.
http://www.suebox.com/store/Embroidery-Collections-amp-Designs/Sparkling-Christmas-Collection/32-Christmas-Design.html Sue Box is a fabulous site that sometimes has free embroidery designs. Make sure you download them in PES format. This one, is the most universal, if you do not have an embroidery machine.
I belong to sew many newsletters. The best for Tailoring is Scabal. Here is the last post. My advice is to join this group. They are very classic.
For those of you, who are starting your own business: Here are some Liz Goodgold words. Subcribe to her blog. She will share lots of gems….
7 Secrets to Creating a Pitch that Gets You Funded
This is an Ode to Tim Gunn. This weekend, I had the opportunity to hear Tim Gunn be interviewed on a radio program. I also found an article about him in the Washington Post. He is right. He is always right. See the links. Also, a big Thank You to Amy, who found an anti theft device for our life-size dressforms. Carol sent in an Youtube video on how jeans are made. Thank you all contributors !!!!!!
Draping: Last week, we took personal croqui pictures. We also measured for our Patterns. This week: We will be making croqui and a special pattern for our dress forms with the use of Patternmaker software. Remember to bring a fairly new, or new tape measure and your USB !!!!!
Upcycling: We did Fabric Burn Tests. What fun. We also worked on cutting our fabric for our Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolios. This week, we will finish working on our Portfolio patterns. AND we will begin to have our Textile Presentations. Bring your upcycling to class, so we talk about it.
Flat Pattern Manipulation: We will finish making complete first patterns that will be used to cut our muslin toile samples to check the fit on our half scale dressforms. If everything goes well, we will be able to make our final manila master sloper patterns toward the end of class. Because of this, we pushed back our Knock-Off project.
Sew Fun 1: We finished cutting our Sewing Techniques portfolio patterns. When fusing, it is necessary to let go and let the fabric!!!!! We started learning to care for serger sewing machines and learned how to use them. This coming week, we will concentrate on learning how to mark our patterns with symbols that will help us sew.
https://www.washingtonpost.com/posteverything/wp/2016/09/08/tim-gunn-designers-refuse-to-make-clothes-to-fit-american-women-its-a-disgrace/?utm_term=.ef77b2566fc0 Washington Post Article.
http://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2016/09/22/tim-gunn-plus-sized-women Radiio Interview with Tim Gunn.
Anti Theft Devices: I bought one to attach to my form model so that I don’t need to worry about it “disappearing”; if it does, it can be tracked down. There are several types that I looked at; Tile is very popular but I was not happy with it being a disposable unit – good for a year and then you toss as the battery cannot be replaced. I opted for the latest XY3 because of the mapping feature, the app is free for IOS & Android phones (no monthly service charge), and you can run the app in the background so it does not eat up your phone battery life.
How jeans are manufactured: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8vA0UwLS70 Thank you for sending this, Carol.
See you all in class !!!!!!
Hello A-Team !!!!
I love this photo that was obviously photoshoped. There is just something about a parade of furry children. Today, while I was on the computer, I watched a program with dog land races, dog jumpers, and dog surfers. There was more life guards, camera men, and people then there were dogs. NO one was getting hurt. Commandment #11: Safety First !!!!!! I LOVED it. Great working background. I just could not help myself from watching and laughing. The trainers spoke about their athletic pooches just like they spoke about the Olympians in Rio. What fun !!!!
The classes this week:
Draping: On Monday, we still need to go over the patternmaking glossary. I will be taking personal croqui pictures and you (in sets of 3) will be taking measurements to make a computer pattern for your dressform slip cover. Remember to wear leggings, your sacrificial bra and a tight t-shirt. A tank top is even better. There is a supply list that you need for this day, written in your syllabus. Bring everything you need. Have you bought your 48 inch zipper, yet??????? I hope Amy has come up with a simple device for theft control. I am worried, that if you leave your dressform in the stock room, it may disappear.
Upcycling: By Tuesday, you know your textile presentation fabric name. Hopefully, you have started your research. This week, you will be cutting your fabric samples for your Sewing Operations Portfolio. Maybe, some of you, have 2 or 3 garments that you are deciding on how to combine for our upcycling project. We will also be burning fabric to learn some fabric identification techniques. You will be surprised !!!! There is more synthetics out there, than natural fiber fabrics. Next week, we will start our Textile Presentations. Yes, I bought a copy of Daddy’s Ties. It should be here, by Tuesday.
Flat Pattern Manipulation: Some of you feel that it is a requirement to buy a half scale dress form. IT IS NOT !!!!! Unless….you really want to. My courses are expensive enough without adding anything to them. This week, we will finish walking off and truing our first pattern slopers. Then we will cut our 5 piece muslin toile sloper to adjust the fit of our patterns, one last time. You will be adding 3/8 inch seam allowances to the fabric. This sample is a full sample. Both right and left sides. Do not put a zipper in it. It is just a fitting sloper sample. Just leave the back open. Your 3/8 inch seam allowance will hold straight pins – just fine. Remember to bring your sewing kit so that you can sew it up.
Sewing Fundamentals 1: You are to come to class with your fabric cut on grain from your Sewing Techniques Portfolio Patterns. Today, we will continue cutting our interfacings. If you had trouble cutting your knit samples, we can go over this in class, again. Knits are slippery to work with. We will also learn how to fuse interfacing to our fashion fabric, have our first lesson on sergers, and be introduced to simple marking techniques. So far, no decision has been made concerning this course. I know my class size is very low. Perhaps I will have more news for you during class.
Links and Things:
Here is a link from Maureen concerning sewing machine purchases. It is entitled: Too Much Information (Updated.) The article is very very good. Thank you Maureen.
Some of you may have heard that there is a wild professional growth tour in March 2017. The link is from Maureen. If you want to go, your deposit needs to be in before September 30th, 2016. Again, Thank you, Maureen. The name of the tour is Mrs. Weaver’s European Lingerie Tour. Check this out !!!!! I have asked my Dean, if I can have time off for this Once in a Lifetime Professional Growth Experience.
Here is the Job Posting email from Gariela.
From: Gabriela Rubio [email@example.com]
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 3:09 PM
To: Jeanne Reith; Joan McKenna
Subject: ALEXIA MARIA JOB POSITIONS
I would like to introduce myself. My name is Gabriela and I am the brand manager at Alexia Maria. Alexia Maria is a high-end women’s wear brand. Our collections mainly consist of formal pieces such as silk faille gowns and dresses. Our flagship store is located here in San Diego as well as our atelier where we design and make all of our pieces. We are currently looking for pattern makers and sample makers. I would like to know if you have any students or alumni that are interested or that you would like to recommend for this type of job. Please let me know if you can offer any help.
Gabriela is ALEXIA MARIA Brand Manager
1261 Prospect St. #2 La Jolla, CA 92037
Hello A-Team !!!
This following week, is week 2 for the Fall 2016 semester of Sew Along with Joanie’s courses. The journey is just beginning. Open the file cabinets in your mind and let the learning begin.
Draping on Body Doubles: This patternmaking course is just beginning on Monday. Print out your syllabus and come to class. Be prepared to take notes and register in class.
Upcycling: This Sew Like a Pro course is broken up into 3 parts. The first part is Textiles. On Tuesday, both Upcycling classes will choose the topic of their textile presentation. Just pick a fabric and then follow your syllabus as to what to talk about. Each discussion will be about 10 minutes. I will see if I can get you into the computer laboratory for research. Besides starting our Textile projects, we will be starting our Sew Like a Pro portfolios. This past weekend, there was a fandango to buy fabrics and supplies for this. Pre-shrink everything before you come to class. Check your closet for 2 to 3 items that we can upcycle into 1 item. If you can’t find anything, there is always the thrift shops. You will find lots of things there……….
Flat Pattern Manipulation: Come to class with your double laminated french curves cut. You can finish up smoothing the curves in class, with a nail file. We will also be tracing our 5 piece master collection onto pattern paper. We will then tape the pieces together and begin to true everything up so that it fits your chosen half scale dress form. You will learn a few patternmaking techniques. The term of the day will be “Walk Off.” From your trued up and walked off pattern, you will be producing a sample toile.
Sewing Fundamentals 1 (Sew Fun 1): Come to class with your fabrics pre-shrunk and patterns all cut. Pre-shrink your interfacings in a clean sink. Directions for all of this, are in your syllabus. Remember: Stabilizer is NOT pre-shrunk. Bring all your supplies. You will be learning more about grainlines, and layouts.
Some interesting Links:
Sewing Machine Parts Online This site has great parts for older sewing machines and fantastic YouTube Educational Videos. Good Site to Know about.
Wawak.com This site has sewing supplies at great prices.
Keeping you Posted with McCall’s Patterns This is a blog from McCalls’s. They present alot of different ideas.
Silhouette Patterns It is good to know about Peggy Sager’s Patterns.
Welcome to the Fall 2016 Semester !!!! To the right, you will find all the syllabi for my fall 2016 courses. Download, Print and read your needs. Sometimes there is more than one item to download and print. Check the download and link pages. I will meet you all in class. I don’t write to the blog weekly, anymore. Time is the issue. I write when there is something that you need to know. So it is a good idea to subscribe to the blog. It’s easy. Just add your email address to the box on the right.
Note to my Summer 2016 Sew Like a Pro Fussy Cutting Course: I tried to contact Simon Helberg concerning our plaid shirts. CBS got the email. I don’t know if he got the email. I tried.
Here are some interesting links and things to ponder as we begin our educational journey together.
http://wapo.st/2bZvvbT?tid=ss_mail Thank you, Maureen for this interesting article concerning why clothes are not selling because of poor construction, bad fit, and not up to style.
http://www.wawak.com This is a fabulous site from Maureen, where you can get sewing supplies and equipment at reasonable prices.
If anyone has a sewing/patternmaking idea for the blog, see me in class. Maybe, you can be a guest blogger.
Center for Pattern Design is a terrific site for Patternmakers. Check it out. The following is from one of there blogs. https://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/
|Re-Invention — The New DI’s
Seems like much is breaking up and being re-invented — housing, transportation, communication, business, working and us, too. So we’re looking for new common denominators. It’s time to identify new “dominant ideals”, key pieces of the zeitgeist. DI’s are attitudes and trends which don’t just appear three times in one arena to be declared official but simultaneously in divergent arenas — they become that which we take for granted. For instance, the minimalist thing. Clean communication on small screens has led to the cleaning away of anything extraneous, anywhere — minimal design now a mindset. Re-invention is brewing — some of the indicators:
A possible female President. This would mean a renewed attention to dressing and it’s meaning, less reliance on old luxury label loyalty. Non-verbal communication will include clothes more — they are armor and they telegraph the punch. The DI: Custom cut power jackets — and custom cut boardroom clout to go with. Keyword now: Custom. Proof: The New Age of Power Dressing and Why the Pantsuit?
To press the point, check The Suit That Couldn’t Be Copied and look very carefully at what custom clothes can deliver for a man — works even better for women, more to work with. One word: competition. It is fierce and clothes are a tool. See book review below.
The emergence of developing countries and free trade means more textile related primary skills go to market. Africa’s growing fashion scene is an example, which coupled with Black Lives Matter here, will change the RTW mix. The DI: Ethnic cuts and patterns, textile based design. Africa Fashion Week, London, Sept. 9/10, 2016.
Authenticity. Greater demand for authentically usable clothes means swimsuits you can swim in — Feetz, shoes you can walk in.When the practical seems novel, you know fashion-as-theater has met the wall. The DI: The Sensible Look. Constructed. Serviceable, Long lasting and even Military.
Less stigma. More adaptive clothing, called ‘health wear’, driven by those aging-still-working types and the Internet’s niche markets for very personal needs. The DI: Dignity for more people. See: Magna Ready and Care & Wear.
Living things. Greater understanding ofhuman consequences to living things means more conscientious choices for animals, plants, water, air — and other people. The DI: Knowing who or what paid for your clothes — and how much. (The tiny fleece fibers on the left and other synthetics are in the ocean — fish ingest them and perish.)
Aging Millennials. They are, you know. They are the new dominant demographic so make way and cheer them on! Their DI: They’re smarter, less pretentious and more careful than you think. Lessons have been learned.