Spring 2018 Semester Courses

Hello A-Team:   Welcome to Spring 2018!!!!

I am in the process of editing the blog’s right hand column with the new spring 2018 syllabi.  What is there now, is just place holders.  Just before class at the end of January, I will do the final updates.  Taking class with me, means that you are starting a journey to gain knowledge to better yourself, or to update your workforce skills for either a career or to start a new business.  This semester, I am teaching Computer Patternmaking with a very student friendly program:  Patternmaker.  Check them out!!!!!  Press on the link.  The Professional Studio uses CAD tools, just like the big boys in the Apparel Industry.  My other course will be Sew Like a Pro.  In this course, we will be exploring textiles and sewing a garment with fabric that is difficult to handle.

The learning will be NON-stop this semester.

Come for the ride!

Sincerely,

Joanie

 

Welcome to Fall 2017: You Just Gotta Laugh !!!!

Hello Fall Semester A-Team Students:

Apparently, I can not add anything to the website.  There seems to be a major glitch.  You can still get into the Downloads menu and print your Sewing Fundamentals 1 Patterns.  Remembers to do this without scaling or shrink to fit.  You can also print:  Toubleshooting your Sewing Machine.  I will be prepared to give you a syllabus tomorrow in the Sewing Fundamentals 1 class.   Wednesday, the Drafting syllabus will be given out. 

Enjoy the rest of your holiday.

Sincerely,  

Joan McKenna

To a Great Mind, Nothing is Little. Sherlock Holmes

 

shoptilyoudrop-2

Hello A-Team:

Between going to class, enjoy your time shopping !!!!  This will be a spectacular holiday season.  Whether you spend on line or spend in the brick and mortar stores, the climate is right to:  SHOP TILL YOU DROP !!!!  And remember all those interior decorating details.  Those visual mood enhancers are terrific to keep the spirit of the season going strong through January 1.  I still can’t believe that 2017 is just around the corner.

Yes there is class this week !!!!!

Draping:

Before the break, we draped the princess torso block.  We played with draped cowls.   And we picked our favorite croqui drawing to do our final draping project.  This week, we continue to learn details:  collars and necklines on dartless bodice shapes.

Upcycling:

We learned how to sew a continuous shirt placket in a sleeve.  This week, we will continue with the 2 piece shirt placket and the one piece shirt placket.  I know these operations are tough.   BUT, they have so many applications when you sew.  You can use them in necklines and in pants.

Flat Pattern Manipulation:

Last class, we started, but left off on style #903.  This week we will continue flat patterning the style.  Last week, we also picked our final croqui sketch for our final patterned garment due the last day of class in January.   This garment will fit our half scale dress forms.  I hope you gave your final design some patterning thought during the break.  I would like to see how you used the quarter size patterns.

Speaking of the quarter size patterns, I received an email concerning the quarter sizes I gave out to you.  Some of them are not to perfect scale. Multiples would NOT all fit on a single page, if they they were all to scale.  No where on the packet, did it state that the patterns were perfect to scale.  If you want to be perfect, just photocopy the ones in the back of your text…….   The quarter sizes were handed out to help you understand how to cut up your half size patterns into your final garment styles.  It is like thinking out loud.  Also:  Check out page 1 of your syllabus.  It states that this course is taught in half-scale….right in the title.

A few of you, want to draft your own master sloper patterns.  My spring 2016 drafting syllabus, has all the information needed to do this.  Just send me an email and let me know.

Sew Fun 1:

Before the break, we worked on our sleeves and made the half-scale skirt for our bodice-jacket.  Next week we will continue with learning how to set in sleeves in our bodices, how to understitch a v-neckline and make a collar.

Terrific Men’s Wear Tailoring Links:  Highly Educational and this proves Sherlock is correct:  To a Great Mind, Nothing is Little.  Apply this to Tailoring and all its details !!!!

The Guide to Cloth

Scabal and the Permanent Style collaborate to build an in-depth, practical cloth guide with information at every level of detail.

THE BASICS OF SELECTING CLOTH

What is it for? How cloth is made? What are its properties? What do I do with it?

Read more

THE GUIDE TO JACKETINGS

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit.

Read more

THE GUIDE TO WORSTED SUITINGS

How to choose your fabric according to composition and construction.

Read more 

THE A-Z OF CLOTH

A glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and finishing.

Read more

See you all in Class !!!!!

Joanie

It’s not the years in your life that count. It’s the life in your years. Abe Lincoln

president_bush_thanksgiving_day_dinner_in_baghdad_2003Hello A-Team:

Today’s picture says a lot about what presidents do on Veteran’s Day.  Because of the election, Veterans Day did not get as much recognition as it should have.  These men and women are ready to give the supreme sacrifice so that we can keep our country free.  At this moment in time, it is necessary that we all come together and believe in the democracy we live in.  Believe that the original gangsters, and troublemakers, who wrote the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution KNEW what they were doing when they wrote up the 3 branches of government:  Judicial, Executive and legislative.   Enough said about politics that really has not changed in over 200 years……………

The Classes:

Draping:  Your 5 piece sloper set is due this week.  So are your 3 croqui final pcitures.  This week, you will be draping the princess bodice while the instructor goes around and individually checks your homework for your final project.  The great directions are in your text book.  Toward the end of the class, we will delve into dartless shapes, necklines, collars and cowls.

Upcycling:  Last week, we learned how to sew up a one-piece facing.  This week, we will start working on sleeve plackets.  There are 3 of them, that I want to teach you.  The continuous, the 2 piece, and the 1 piece.  You will use them many times in your sewing career.

Flat Patternmaking:  Your Curved Dart Dress is due.  We will take pictures of your achievement!!!!  Also, your 3 croqui final pictures are due.  I will go around and individually discuss them with you.   I do not want your final project to be overwhelming.  While I am discussing with your peers, you will be flat patterning the bateau neckline with facings.  Style 0601.

This is a side note to this class:  Azizeh gets a gold star for what she did at the end of class!!!!!  I will let her tell you all about it.

Sew Fun 1:  This class is way behind.  So I cut out one class.  This coming week, we will be making a skirt with an elastic waist band, And we will be working on our bodice sleeves.

Links and Things:

tailor__s_poster   There is a great Movie Night coming up at Mesa College.  It is on Tuesday, November 15th.  The name of the movie is:  Men of the Cloth.  If you have the time….go see this.  It is about 3 master tailors.  The link will bring you to the movie poster.

Stretch Knit Ruler instructions.  The following PDF is for the ruler itself.  knit-ruler-free  Thank you very much, Jen !!!!

http://view.e.interweave.com/?qs=1767aaa6ecb32727c341e6ec294fff601861ee5c154a1ec4f9098c823d17bd3080ca09723fca74773617af817dc89f22bcae3cc8807460a1893c3b7d1ac752621ceda85908af021802faa626d61e00ba  13 free craft projects.

See you all in Class !!!!!!

Joanie

 

There is Nothing so Stable as Change. Bob Dylan

Cats Playing in a BandHello A-Team !!!!

I love this photo that was obviously photoshoped.  There is just something about a parade of furry children.  Today, while I was on the computer, I watched a program with dog land races, dog jumpers, and dog surfers.  There was more life guards, camera men, and people then there were dogs.   NO one was getting hurt.  Commandment #11:  Safety First !!!!!!  I LOVED it.  Great working background.  I just could not help myself from watching and laughing.  The trainers spoke about their athletic pooches just like they spoke about the Olympians in Rio.  What fun !!!!

The classes this week:

Draping:  On Monday, we still need to go over the patternmaking glossary.  I will be taking personal croqui pictures and you (in sets of 3) will be taking measurements to make a computer pattern for your dressform slip cover.   Remember to wear leggings, your sacrificial bra and a tight t-shirt.  A tank top is even better.  There is a supply list that you need for this day, written in your syllabus.  Bring everything you need.  Have you bought your 48 inch zipper, yet???????   I hope Amy has come up with a simple device for theft control.  I am worried, that if you leave your dressform in the stock room, it may disappear.

Upcycling:  By Tuesday, you know your textile presentation fabric name.  Hopefully, you have started your research.  This week, you will be cutting your fabric samples for your Sewing Operations Portfolio.  Maybe, some of you, have 2 or 3 garments that you are deciding on how to combine for our upcycling project.  We will also be burning fabric to learn some fabric identification techniques.  You will be surprised !!!!  There is more synthetics out there, than natural fiber fabrics.  Next week, we will start our Textile Presentations.  Yes, I bought a copy of Daddy’s Ties.  It should be here, by Tuesday.

Flat Pattern Manipulation:  Some of you feel that it is a requirement to buy a half scale dress form.   IT IS NOT !!!!!  Unless….you really want to.  My courses are expensive enough without adding anything to them.  This week, we will finish walking off and truing our first pattern slopers.  Then we will cut our 5 piece muslin toile sloper to adjust the fit of our patterns, one last time.   You will be adding 3/8 inch seam allowances to the fabric.  This sample is a full sample.  Both right and left sides.  Do not put a zipper in it.  It is just a fitting sloper sample.  Just leave the back open.  Your 3/8 inch seam allowance will hold straight pins – just fine.  Remember to bring your sewing kit so that you can sew it up.

Sewing Fundamentals 1:  You are to come to class with your fabric cut on grain from your Sewing Techniques Portfolio Patterns.  Today, we will continue cutting our interfacings.  If you had trouble cutting your knit samples, we can go over this in class, again.  Knits are slippery to work with.  We will also learn how to fuse interfacing to our fashion fabric, have our first lesson on sergers, and be introduced to simple marking techniques.  So far, no decision has been made concerning this course.  I know my class size is very low.  Perhaps I will have more news for you during class.  

Links and Things:

Here is a link from Maureen concerning sewing machine purchases.  It is entitled:  Too Much Information (Updated.)  The article is very very good.   Thank you Maureen.

Some of you may have heard that there is a wild professional growth tour in March 2017.  The link is from Maureen.  If you want to go, your deposit needs to be in before September 30th, 2016.   Again, Thank you, Maureen.  The name of the tour is Mrs. Weaver’s European Lingerie Tour.   Check this out !!!!!  I have asked my Dean, if I can have time off for this Once in a Lifetime Professional Growth Experience.

Here is the Job Posting email from Gariela.

From: Gabriela Rubio [gabriela@alexiamaria.com]
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 3:09 PM
To: Jeanne Reith; Joan McKenna
Subject: ALEXIA MARIA JOB POSITIONS

Hello,

I would like to introduce myself. My name is Gabriela and I am the brand manager at Alexia Maria. Alexia Maria is a high-end women’s wear brand. Our collections mainly consist of formal pieces such as silk faille gowns and dresses. Our flagship store is located here in San Diego as well as our atelier where we design and make all of our pieces. We are currently looking for pattern makers and sample makers. I would like to know if you have any students or alumni that are interested or that you would like to recommend for this type of job. Please let me know if you can offer any help.

Thank you!

Gabriela  is ALEXIA MARIA Brand Manager

1261 Prospect St. #2 La Jolla, CA 92037
http://www.alexiamaria.com

See you all in class !!!!!

Joanie

Life is just a bunch of twists and turns on the game board of life. It is how we navigate that defines who we are. Joan McKenna

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Hello A-Team !!!

This following week,  is week 2 for the Fall 2016 semester of Sew Along with Joanie’s courses.   The journey is just beginning.  Open the file cabinets in your mind and let the learning begin.

Draping on Body Doubles:  This patternmaking course is just beginning on Monday.  Print out your syllabus and come to class.  Be prepared to take notes and register in class.

Upcycling:  This Sew Like a Pro course is broken up into 3 parts.   The first part is Textiles.  On Tuesday, both Upcycling classes will choose the topic of their textile presentation.  Just pick a fabric and then follow your syllabus as to what to talk about.  Each discussion will be about 10 minutes.  I will see if I can get you into the computer laboratory for research.    Besides starting our Textile projects, we will be starting our Sew Like a Pro portfolios.  This past weekend, there was a fandango to buy fabrics and supplies for this.  Pre-shrink everything before you come to class.  Check your closet for 2 to 3 items that we can upcycle into 1 item.  If you can’t find anything, there is always the thrift shops.  You will find lots of things there……….

Flat Pattern Manipulation:  Come to class with your double laminated french curves cut.  You can finish up smoothing the curves in class, with a nail file.  We will also be tracing our 5 piece master collection onto pattern paper.  We will then tape the pieces together and begin to true everything up so that it fits your chosen half scale dress form.  You will learn a few patternmaking techniques.  The term of the day will be “Walk Off.”  From your trued up and walked off pattern, you will be producing a sample toile.

Sewing Fundamentals 1  (Sew Fun 1):  Come to class with your fabrics pre-shrunk and patterns all cut.  Pre-shrink your interfacings in a clean sink.  Directions for all of this, are in your syllabus.  Remember:  Stabilizer is NOT pre-shrunk.  Bring all your supplies.  You will be learning more about grainlines, and layouts.

Some interesting Links:

Sewing Machine Parts Online  This site has great parts for older sewing machines and fantastic YouTube Educational Videos.  Good Site to Know about.

Wawak.com  This site has sewing supplies at great prices.

Keeping you Posted with McCall’s Patterns  This is a blog from McCalls’s.  They present alot of different ideas.

Silhouette Patterns     It is good to know about Peggy Sager’s Patterns.

New York Times Fabulous Article 

See you all in class this week !!!!!!

Joanie

We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give. Winston Churchill

Statue of Liberty

Hello A-Team:

It is at the end of a perfect day, that we all get a chance to look up into the sky and see gorgeous fireworks.  It is also a chance for us to reflect how lucky we all are, to live in this country.

Thank U Vets

Yes, there IS class this Wednesday.  By July 6th, we should all have our shirts cut and be ready to fuse and mark our fabric. Bring your samples in.  I will be grading them.  Remember to bring in your Press Cloths.  It would also help to bring a clear ruler that is 2 inches by 18 inches.  We need to cut off some…but not all… our seam allowances from our interfacing.  This will help to eliminate bulk at the edges.  I know this will NOT take us the entire class period, so we can begin to sew up our shirts.  WHAT FUN !!!!!

Fun Links and Things:

Jobs:

I have some clients that have jobs that need filling. What we are looking for:  – 2 experienced full time sewers for a company in south bay that makes medical supplies like diapers.  – 1 experienced cutter, full time for a company in south bay that makes medical supplies like diapers.  – 1 Merchandiser/Buyer who doesn’t have to be very experienced, but whom is a good communicator, to cover a 4 month maturity leave.  IF you are interested in any of these jobs, email Joan McKenna.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/1608093@N23/pool/  Christine found this on Flickr.  There are 400-something pictures.  A feast for your eyes.  Thank YOU, Christine !!!!!  I personally LOVE all the gents who posed for the pictures.

https://issuu.com/urbanthreads/docs/may_2016  This is a feast for anyone who machine embroiders.  It is the latest Look Book from UrbanThreads.  They do exciting embroidery designs.  And they have great pricing.  Check out their site:  www.urbanthreads.com.

The San Diego Fashion Guild is having a fashion show.  Information is on their facebook page.  Thank you Jena for submitting this.

Richard sent this in.  http://sandiego.makerfaire.com/makers/   Sounds like fun to me!!!!  Check out the Maker’s Fair!!!!   Thank you for sending this to me.

See you all in class !!!!

Joanie

 

 

Life is best lived in a state of hopeful anticipation. Tammy Noble.

Hello A-Team:

In our fussy cutting class this week, we will be reading and understanding our Pattern Guides.  Sometimes, you agree with the instructions, and sometimes you won’t.  This reading just makes sense of everything.  We will also be working on our sleeve placket samples.  Of course, this week, there will be time to finish up our fabric layouts and cut.  I know, that fussy cutting takes time, it took me 2 days to match my plaid and layout my pattern pieces.  I cut the secondary fabric and the interfacing.  I only had time to layout my pattern pieces on the plaid.  And even with doing this, I have some piecing to do.  I will explain all of this in class.

Links and Things:

Christine was nice enough to share this link with us.  It shows how to put in the sleeve placket.  Being that it is from YouTube, it is closed captioned.  https://youtu.be/jwOQMrYzNqg    This is only part 1.  Part 2 follows part 1.

Here is a fabulous link concerning Toilet Paper Wedding Dresses.  Such a treat for the eyes.  Thank you Barbara for sending this to me.  https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2016/06/20/the-12th-annual-toilet-paper-wedding-dress-contest/?postshare=5351466423340735&tid=ss_fb.

Here is a great article from Threads Magazine Online concerning inputting invisible zippers in knit fabrics.  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/46296/how-to-sew-an-invisible-zipper-in-a-knit-garment.

See you all in class !!!!!

Joanie

 

Spring Break – Lots of Learning Going On !!!!!

Hello A-Team:

Pictures of the week:  Men’s Fitted Shirts at the National City Swap Meet


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I can not thank Chris enough for his awesome questions concerning darts in men’s shirts.

This week there is no class.  Easter Sunday was March 25th.  It is good to have a break every once in a while.  I got a chance to update the grading charts.  I will be able to show you how you stand on hours & projects.  Did you sign up for Sew Pro’s Trip to LA???  It is on April 16th.  Call them.  Amy says they will take your over the phone payment.    Remember:  The Accreditation Team will be coming to view the classes next week.  Have you learned your Student Learning Outcomes?  (SLOs).  Here they are again:

Current SLOs  2016 

SDCE Institutional Student Learning Outcomes:

  1. Social Responsibility

SDCE students demonstrate interpersonal skills by learning and working cooperatively in a diverse environment.

  1. Effective Communication

SDCE students demonstrate effective communication skills.

  1. Critical Thinking

SDCE students critically process information, make decisions, and solve problems independently or cooperatively.

  1. Personal and Professional Development

SDCE students pursue short term and life-long learning goals, mastering necessary skills and using resource management and self advocacy skills to cope with changing situations in their lives.

SDCE Fashion Discipline Student Learning Outcomes:        

Students completing a fashion or fashion production course or program will be able to understand and apply concepts, technologies, related skills and techniques by successfully completing class projects in order to prepare for fashion careers.

J McKenna’s Student Learning Outcomes for Spring 2016 Courses:

  1. Sew Like a Pro:  Students will be able to demonstrate advanced sewn product stitching & construction skills as evidence by the completion of an Advanced Sewing Operations Portfolio,  and the completion of basic clothing alterations using garments from their own closet or from a thrift store using professional standards of workmanship.
  1. Fundamentals Of Patternmaking: Collections:  Students will prove their Fundamentals of Patternmaking course learning and competencies by the completion of their first 3 garment (or one 3-Piece outfit) collection.
  1. Tailoring:  Upon completion of this course, students will be able to complete a tailored/couture garment using professional standards of workmanship.  Evidence will be the selection and use of fabrics and supporting materials suitable for the garment which meet established standards for tailored/couture construction.
  1. Sewing Fundamentals 1:  Upon course completion, students will be able to demonstrate basic sewn product stitching & construction skills as evidence by the completion of a Sewing Techniques Portfolio.
  1. Fundamentals Of Patternmaking: Drafting:  Students will demonstrate their Fundamentals of Patternmaking course learning and competencies by drafting and using their five piece Master Dress Sloper to pattern and construct a garment from their text book.

Last week in the classroom:

Drafting:  We are still finishing up our sleeves.  We learned a new method for “walking off” sleeves in an armhole.  Of course, over this break, I made handouts for you.  Teaches you how to make changes 2 – 3 different ways.  Next week:  We will make the skirt front and back and finish up the sloper pattern collection.

Sew Like a Pro-Both Classes:  We are still learning how to construct sleeveless facings.  We are almost done.  Next week:  We will finish up our sleeveless facings and learn how to put in a Fly Front Jeans Zipper.  Both these classes have open spaces.  If you need extra sewing time, you can join us.

Sewing Fundamentals 1:  We are making our way through our sewing techniques portfolio grading sheet.  Next week:  We will be learning to make flat-felled seams, inset right corners, facings, and collars.  Keep those questions coming, Chris!!!!  We even did an extra credit: dart in a seam to show how you can hide darts in a fitted garment.

Tailoring:  We just finished our 7 portfolio Tailoring Operations.  I have one more demo to show you concerning double buttonholes.  I just had to think of another way to do tailored jacket buttonholes without cording because you just can’t do it EASILY, on a keyhole buttonhole.   Remember to bring your pattern guide on Monday, April 4.  We will also read through and UNDERSTAND, what they are telling you to do.  We all know how to read.  We all need to understand that the guide is a guide and not a God.  Words to remember:  You have the opportunity to use different methods, if you don’t like what the guide is telling you.  On Wednesday, April 6, your Tailoring Operation Samples are all due for grading.  I will be taking pictures of your samples and you wearing your jacket toile.  WHAT FUN !!!!!!

Collections:  There is a month left.  In the right hand side bar, there are the rules and flyer for Mesa’s 2016 Golden Scissors Fashion Show.   Read it. I have already asked questions about it.  I need to send in pictures on April 26.  We will talk in class.  After the show, we will concentrate on making a Tech Pack for our garment (s).  Thank you for your patience while I worked with the tailoring class.

Links and Things to Know !!!!

Joan Hankin’s Stash.  Email her.  She wants to sell it all for $1 a yard.  The fabrics are all cotton like.  You have a variety of knits and wovens.   sewingsister5@cox.net.  Her phone number is:  619 442 8128.  I do have samples of the fabrics.  Ask me in the classroom.


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Check out Elo’s Website!!!!!   Good morning my friends. I would like to introduce you to my first food blog. More recipes coming up soon. Stay tuned http://www.chefscanteen.elodesigns.com/

For more about the artist visit:  www.artshop.elodesigns.com

Richard’s Great Fashion Videos and Websites:  These need to be seen to be believed !!!!  I need to add the following about Richard’s links.  I do believe that at least one link, uses nude models.  They had to use a nude model to do what they did.  It is still worth seeing what they SPRAYED on her !!!!!!

http://paulinevandongen.nl/mobile/index.html 

http://www.catalogodiseno.com/

http://amsterdamcyclechic.com/

http://www.fabricanltd.com/applications.php?category=Fashion

The following is from Janet Prey.  She lives in Michigan.  Someday, I want to take classes from her.  She IS terrific.  She teaches the Islander System of Sewing.  Here are her 6 Tips for Interfacing Shirts.

Interfacing is one of today’s most missunderstood products in home sewing. It is important to know there are several reasons for interfacing a pattern piece:

  1. To create a crisp appearance such as collars, cuffs and plackets. 2.To reinforce areas where buttons, buttonholes and topstitching will be applied. 3. Adds to the longevity of the garment. To follow are 6 tips for interfacing shirts that rival top ready-to-wear garments selling for hundred dollars.
  1.  Choosing only high quality fusible interfacing is a no-brainer but I felt the need to say it anyway. The quality of the interfacing you choose is equaly as important as the quality of the fashion fabric.
  1. Two types of interfacing are required in the classic button-up shirt: a firm and a soft. The firm is applied to the collar, cuffs and buttonhole placket. The soft is used on the pocket hems, collar facing, cuff facings, sleeve plackets and button placket.
  1. Leave the seam allowance on the interfacing everywhere except the collar points.
  1. Cut and adhere interfacing to all pieces well in advance of starting to sew.

      5. Use a quality iron made for garment sewing. It must have good steaming capability and it should be heavier than the       average home iron. For best results in fusing interfacing, use a pressing cloth, lots of steam, firm pressure but you don’t need to apply your entire body weight. *Apply heat and shots of steam for 30 to 60 seconds or according to the instructions from the manufacturer. Now, don’t touch it! This is very important and where many fusible interfacing projects go wrong. It should cool for several minutes before you handle it as you could disturb the the glue before it has a chance to set and permanently adhere to the fabric evenly.

  1.  I use my press for fusible interfacing, it’s the best! All the same rules apply; to create steam use a damp press cloth, clamp the press shut until the alarm sounds. I open the press and close again for one more alarm, let it cool and it never fails.

“It doesn’t get any better than that!”

Remember to read the manufacturer’s directions on any fusible interfacing as they may vary in time, temperature and steam or no steam.

When I have the time, I ALWAYS put it into my blog posts.  See you all next week !!!!!

Joanie