Hello A-Team: Welcome to the Spring 2019 Semester!
Check out the following photo. It is worth a thousand words!
These 2 tapemeasures are supposedly the same. But are they?????? The white one seams dead on when compared to the cutting mat. The yellow one, seams to have shrunk. Amazing. Sometimes tapemeasures stretch; sometimes they shrink; when they are getting old. Maybe the cutting mat was printed off. Always check and replace your tapemeasure because you always need accurate measurements. This tip was given to me, by Maureen. Thank you, Maureen!!! The picture is worth a thousand words !!!!
For my spring 2019 courses, the syllabi are under their respective pictures in the right hand column. Just click on the picture to get an idea of the amount of learning I packed into each course. Go to the menu and check the Downloads page. There are useful things you can download and print from there. Check your syllabus for needs. The Links page has many links that you will find useful to buy texts at a better price or to look for your first fashion career position or internship.
Come to class for a learning experience you will be using for the rest of your life!!!!!
Apparently, I can not add anything to the website. There seems to be a major glitch. You can still get into the Downloads menu and print your Sewing Fundamentals 1 Patterns. Remembers to do this without scaling or shrink to fit. You can also print: Toubleshooting your Sewing Machine. I will be prepared to give you a syllabus tomorrow in the Sewing Fundamentals 1 class. Wednesday, the Drafting syllabus will be given out.
I just could not wait till the end of Winter Break to email you all. I cannot thank you all enough for all the gifts and cards!!!! I do what I do out of love of the subject. I want everyone to know they can earn a living sewing. It is important to know, that you don’t have to stop wearing something, just because it ripped, lost a button, or got a hole in the pocket. These repairs are easy to fix. And once you learn patternmaking….. You can create your own designs to sell. Thank you again, for all your kindness.
Some of you have homework to do for your first class in January, 2017. I am busy working on the Spring 2017 syllabi along with several other projects. I started to update the right hand column of the blog. I think I will have all the syllabi out by Mid-January. There is a field trip to Yardage Town on February 4. And the trip to LA with Sew Pro’s is on April 29, in the new Spring semester.
Draping: The final class before Winter Break went by so quickly. This class, has only 2 classes left before the end of the semester. We went over draping circle skirts, and our final projects. Our next class is January 9th. Your full size muslin toiles and patterns are due.
Upcycling: The morning class would NOT let me do the daily demo which was the fly zipper for jeans. In the evening class, we practiced the insertion of the invisible zipper.
Flat Patternmaking: We finished up our Style number 903 pattern. There are now 4 classes left to complete our final half-size project. Hope you are working on your half size patterns during the Winter Break. Aren’t the quarter size patterns making more sense??? They should be giving you a sense of direction and confidence.
Sew Fun 1: This class got reversed with the hemming class. We learned how to put hem tape and flexi-lace hem binding on our samples, We learned about the three hand hemming stitches: The blind hem, the slip stitch, and the cross stitch. Learning to do a blind hem, by machine, we put off till the next class in January. Then the students saw a sequin demo. So next class. we will start there, practicing our sequin application. We will also learn how to sew on buttons, snaps, and hooks. Please remember to bring in a small patch so I can show you how to sew it on.
Links and News:
Tasha called me with a great message to all of you !!!! The Humane Society is waving it’s fees for the holiday season. So if you want to adopt a dog or a cat….now is the time !!!!!
The West City Center Career Center Office will be open on Thursdays, from 10 – 3 pm in January. If you are a SDCE student or recent training program graduate, our Career Counselors are available for individual walk-in career planning assistance, job search guidance, and resume critiques. No appointment needed!
Need your resume critiqued? Please bring a hard copy or flash drive file of it with you to your walk-in counseling ses-sion and we’ll review it and give you suggestions!
Check out the many career planning and job search resources are on the Career Services webpage: cds.sdce.edu
Career Counselors: Barbara Elliott for Mesa CE Campus, North City Campus, West City Campus
Marcia Grant for ECC Campus, Mid-City Campus, Cesar Chavez Campus
Our very own Mermaid sent this wonderful link to me concerning bone soups. This gives scientific meaning to my Mom’s chicken soup.
Dear Campus Community,
We are thrilled to present Jump Start to your success on Saturday, February 25, 2017, from 8:30am-1:00pm. This is a time in which we invite hundreds of prospective students to our campus and showcase what we have to offer and how great we do it! The program will include support services, academics, department resources, clubs, and the lively community feel we create at Mesa. We hope you will join the fun!
Columbus, Ohio is becoming MAJOR fashion center. Check out this article !!!! Thank you for sending this link to me, Donna.
Between going to class, enjoy your time shopping !!!! This will be a spectacular holiday season. Whether you spend on line or spend in the brick and mortar stores, the climate is right to: SHOP TILL YOU DROP !!!! And remember all those interior decorating details. Those visual mood enhancers are terrific to keep the spirit of the season going strong through January 1. I still can’t believe that 2017 is just around the corner.
Yes there is class this week !!!!!
Before the break, we draped the princess torso block. We played with draped cowls. And we picked our favorite croqui drawing to do our final draping project. This week, we continue to learn details: collars and necklines on dartless bodice shapes.
We learned how to sew a continuous shirt placket in a sleeve. This week, we will continue with the 2 piece shirt placket and the one piece shirt placket. I know these operations are tough. BUT, they have so many applications when you sew. You can use them in necklines and in pants.
Flat Pattern Manipulation:
Last class, we started, but left off on style #903. This week we will continue flat patterning the style. Last week, we also picked our final croqui sketch for our final patterned garment due the last day of class in January. This garment will fit our half scale dress forms. I hope you gave your final design some patterning thought during the break. I would like to see how you used the quarter size patterns.
Speaking of the quarter size patterns, I received an email concerning the quarter sizes I gave out to you. Some of them are not to perfect scale. Multiples would NOT all fit on a single page, if they they were all to scale. No where on the packet, did it state that the patterns were perfect to scale. If you want to be perfect, just photocopy the ones in the back of your text……. The quarter sizes were handed out to help you understand how to cut up your half size patterns into your final garment styles. It is like thinking out loud. Also: Check out page 1 of your syllabus. It states that this course is taught in half-scale….right in the title.
A few of you, want to draft your own master sloper patterns. My spring 2016 drafting syllabus, has all the information needed to do this. Just send me an email and let me know.
Sew Fun 1:
Before the break, we worked on our sleeves and made the half-scale skirt for our bodice-jacket. Next week we will continue with learning how to set in sleeves in our bodices, how to understitch a v-neckline and make a collar.
Terrific Men’s Wear Tailoring Links: Highly Educational and this proves Sherlock is correct: To a Great Mind, Nothing is Little. Apply this to Tailoring and all its details !!!!
The Guide to Cloth
Scabal and the Permanent Style collaborate to build an in-depth, practical cloth guide with information at every level of detail.
THE BASICS OF SELECTING CLOTH
What is it for? How cloth is made? What are its properties? What do I do with it?
Today’s picture says a lot about what presidents do on Veteran’s Day. Because of the election, Veterans Day did not get as much recognition as it should have. These men and women are ready to give the supreme sacrifice so that we can keep our country free. At this moment in time, it is necessary that we all come together and believe in the democracy we live in. Believe that the original gangsters, and troublemakers, who wrote the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution KNEW what they were doing when they wrote up the 3 branches of government: Judicial, Executive and legislative. Enough said about politics that really has not changed in over 200 years……………
Draping: Your 5 piece sloper set is due this week. So are your 3 croqui final pcitures. This week, you will be draping the princess bodice while the instructor goes around and individually checks your homework for your final project. The great directions are in your text book. Toward the end of the class, we will delve into dartless shapes, necklines, collars and cowls.
Upcycling: Last week, we learned how to sew up a one-piece facing. This week, we will start working on sleeve plackets. There are 3 of them, that I want to teach you. The continuous, the 2 piece, and the 1 piece. You will use them many times in your sewing career.
Flat Patternmaking: Your Curved Dart Dress is due. We will take pictures of your achievement!!!! Also, your 3 croqui final pictures are due. I will go around and individually discuss them with you. I do not want your final project to be overwhelming. While I am discussing with your peers, you will be flat patterning the bateau neckline with facings. Style 0601.
This is a side note to this class: Azizeh gets a gold star for what she did at the end of class!!!!! I will let her tell you all about it.
Sew Fun 1: This class is way behind. So I cut out one class. This coming week, we will be making a skirt with an elastic waist band, And we will be working on our bodice sleeves.
Links and Things:
tailor__s_poster There is a great Movie Night coming up at Mesa College. It is on Tuesday, November 15th. The name of the movie is: Men of the Cloth. If you have the time….go see this. It is about 3 master tailors. The link will bring you to the movie poster.
Since when did Halloween grow up. It used to be for kids. Just look at these cupcakes for a children’s party!!!! I just love seeing the kids come by and get a treat. And I like that they are accompanied by their parents…….
Tomorrow is Halloween. Yes, there is class. And yes, there will be treats………….. Come to class !!!!!
Draping on Body Doubles: This week, we will be drape the basic skirt and pattern it. We will also be using our croqui to design 3 garments for our final. Pick something exciting from our text or explore something that is stuck in the file cabinets of your mind. If time, we will drape the princess bodice.
Upcycling: We are still learning how to do an inverted kick pleat in the morning course. In the night course, we are learning how to sew a one piece facing. And in-between, we are working on our upcycling project(s). What fun !!!!!
Flat Pattern Manipulation: We will be flat patterning sleeves and skirts. Make blocks of your patterns and turn them in for a grade along with your bodice front and back. We will start to flat pattern your first dress.
Sewing Fundamentals 1: In the next class, we will be learning to make challenging seams. Slot, French, Corded, Curved, Flat-felled and the Inset Right Corner. In our spare time, we will practice making darts.
News and Links:
Job Offer !!!!!
From: Amy Meader [email@example.com] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 1:06 PM To: Joan McKenna; Subject: Great Job Offer !!!!!
We at Tracy Bachman Designs in Poway are looking for people to sew for us evenings and/or weekends. Hours are flexible. We make skating and dance costumes mainly for dance studios. We are looking for people with basic sewing knowledge and we are willing to train. Position pays 10.00/hr. Would you happen to know of anyone that you could refer to us? Truly appreciate your time!
Thanks so much! Amy Meader 619-850-0920
Great News from Sew Pro’s !!!!!
So next Saturday is Sew Pro’s semi-annual trip to the Fashion District in LA. They are offering a raffle for a seat on the bus !!!! Yes, they still have about 6 tickets to sell. BUT…one of the tickets is being donated and all you have to do, is call the Clairemont Store before Wednesday noon – November 2. 1-858-279-2500. I will be on the bus. Will you?????
Free Machine Embroidery Design from Advanced Embroidery Designs. Remember to download it in PES format, if you do NOT have an embroidery machine. This is the most universal format. Check it out !!!!! This one, is for all you ballet dancers !!!!
Short YouTube Tutorials about Using Sticky Notes: Another nifty tool found on PC (Windows) computers and often underutilized is the digital version of Post It-like notes, called Sticky Notes.
I have learned that Monday, October 10, is Thanksgiving in Canada. I wish them all a big dinner and to stay warm. I had to call Canada this weekend and found out it was snowing in Calgary. And here we are, in San Diego, where it is vey very warm. Next week, it will get cool. Maybe we will see the temperature dip into the 60’s. The up and down temperatures are sure to continue till November. Even then, it really doesn’t snow in San Diego. Hence, I needed to find a picture that expressed the season as I saw it in Southern California. The leaves are turning colors and Stella, my pussy cat, just loves it. They crackle under her paws and she has been told not to eat the leaves. She has been hanging around me this weekend. I caught a sore throat and had to sleep it off. I am much better, thanks to all that purring in my ears.
As to the classes:
Last week, we started making the dress forms conform to our bodies. This week we will finish. I will make sure that you look marvelous. Then it will be time to pad out the dress forms and put the cover on. You will need to bring your cotton upholstery batting, a couple of plastics from a dry cleaners, your sacrificial bra, and your slipcover. By the end of Monday night’s class, your dress form will be all but completed. IF you want to leave your form in the back room, make sure you have Amy’s tags. See the last post. She tells you where to get them.
We are ready to start our Sewing Operations Portfolio Samples. There are still one or 2 more Textile Presentations to present. Some of you have already started working on your upcycling projects. Remember, you need to have hours, the presentation, the samples and the upcycling project for a grade.
Flat Pattern Manipulation:
Last week, we made 5 master basic sloper patterns out of manila paper. What you didn’t catch, was that there will be 6. Some of you have a one dart sloper front and some of you, have a 2 dart sloper front. In the end, you will all have a one dart and a two dart master basic sloper. I will show you how. The rest of the manila paper I have, will be used for the last sloper. It’s easy. This week, you will practice making knockoffs and I will grade what you have completed, thus far. I checked the pricing of a stamp to remember everything you need to put on a pattern/sloper. Staples wanted $50 for the simple 3 by 5 inch stamp. It was NOT even self-inking. I just can’t do it.
Sew Fun 1:
2 weeks ago: we serged and learned some marking techniques. This passed week, I didn’t hold the class. I took off to kill what was brewing before it got really bad. This week, we will finish up all our prep and begin to sew. This is the week, we will get into TLC for the school’s straight stitch sewing machines. I will be back to teaching with a post nasal drip and a cough. The last remnants of what was starting up.
7 Secrets to Creating a Pitch that Gets You Funded
Create a Head Whip Effect in Your Opening Sentence – Startle us; give us an amazing statistic, tell us a story, but make sure we tune in from the get-go.
Make it Absurdly Simple – As I often say, “Your mother should be able to understand and invest” without a Harvard MBA. Yes; make it that simple!
Get Rid of Every Acronym – Your audience doesn’t work in your field so ANY acronym makes no sense to us; spell out every single word. From IP to FP.
Tell Me About Your Competitors – If you don’t have any competitors, I assume there isn’t a market. Very few products today are so revolutionary that they are the first in their field.
Translate the Familiar to the Unfamiliar – When I was a book editor at Times Mirror, we often pitched new books this way: “it’s like a Sue Grafton murder mystery set in the 1800s;” or “It’s like Die Harder up in space.” Or, use a metaphor: it’s as if yogurt for the skin providing soothing relief.
Make An Ask – What do you want? How much money do you need? What is the next step you want to happen? Remember: There is no selling until you ask a question.
Master the Art of Q&A – Handling the question and answer period is rife with danger; it’s too easy to insult someone, speak over a question, or invent an answer. Practice handling rapid-fire questions in advance.
I love this photo that was obviously photoshoped. There is just something about a parade of furry children. Today, while I was on the computer, I watched a program with dog land races, dog jumpers, and dog surfers. There was more life guards, camera men, and people then there were dogs. NO one was getting hurt. Commandment #11: Safety First !!!!!! I LOVED it. Great working background. I just could not help myself from watching and laughing. The trainers spoke about their athletic pooches just like they spoke about the Olympians in Rio. What fun !!!!
The classes this week:
Draping: On Monday, we still need to go over the patternmaking glossary. I will be taking personal croqui pictures and you (in sets of 3) will be taking measurements to make a computer pattern for your dressform slip cover. Remember to wear leggings, your sacrificial bra and a tight t-shirt. A tank top is even better. There is a supply list that you need for this day, written in your syllabus. Bring everything you need. Have you bought your 48 inch zipper, yet??????? I hope Amy has come up with a simple device for theft control. I am worried, that if you leave your dressform in the stock room, it may disappear.
Upcycling: By Tuesday, you know your textile presentation fabric name. Hopefully, you have started your research. This week, you will be cutting your fabric samples for your Sewing Operations Portfolio. Maybe, some of you, have 2 or 3 garments that you are deciding on how to combine for our upcycling project. We will also be burning fabric to learn some fabric identification techniques. You will be surprised !!!! There is more synthetics out there, than natural fiber fabrics. Next week, we will start our Textile Presentations. Yes, I bought a copy of Daddy’s Ties. It should be here, by Tuesday.
Flat Pattern Manipulation: Some of you feel that it is a requirement to buy a half scale dress form. IT IS NOT !!!!! Unless….you really want to. My courses are expensive enough without adding anything to them. This week, we will finish walking off and truing our first pattern slopers. Then we will cut our 5 piece muslin toile sloper to adjust the fit of our patterns, one last time. You will be adding 3/8 inch seam allowances to the fabric. This sample is a full sample. Both right and left sides. Do not put a zipper in it. It is just a fitting sloper sample. Just leave the back open. Your 3/8 inch seam allowance will hold straight pins – just fine. Remember to bring your sewing kit so that you can sew it up.
Sewing Fundamentals 1: You are to come to class with your fabric cut on grain from your Sewing Techniques Portfolio Patterns. Today, we will continue cutting our interfacings. If you had trouble cutting your knit samples, we can go over this in class, again. Knits are slippery to work with. We will also learn how to fuse interfacing to our fashion fabric, have our first lesson on sergers, and be introduced to simple marking techniques. So far, no decision has been made concerning this course. I know my class size is very low. Perhaps I will have more news for you during class.
Links and Things:
Here is a link from Maureen concerning sewing machine purchases. It is entitled: Too Much Information (Updated.) The article is very very good. Thank you Maureen.
Some of you may have heard that there is a wild professional growth tour in March 2017. The link is from Maureen. If you want to go, your deposit needs to be in before September 30th, 2016. Again, Thank you, Maureen. The name of the tour is Mrs. Weaver’s European Lingerie Tour. Check this out !!!!! I have asked my Dean, if I can have time off for this Once in a Lifetime Professional Growth Experience.
Here is the Job Posting email from Gariela.
From: Gabriela Rubio [firstname.lastname@example.org] Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 3:09 PM To: Jeanne Reith; Joan McKenna Subject: ALEXIA MARIA JOB POSITIONS
I would like to introduce myself. My name is Gabriela and I am the brand manager at Alexia Maria. Alexia Maria is a high-end women’s wear brand. Our collections mainly consist of formal pieces such as silk faille gowns and dresses. Our flagship store is located here in San Diego as well as our atelier where we design and make all of our pieces. We are currently looking for pattern makers and sample makers. I would like to know if you have any students or alumni that are interested or that you would like to recommend for this type of job. Please let me know if you can offer any help.
This following week, is week 2 for the Fall 2016 semester of Sew Along with Joanie’s courses. The journey is just beginning. Open the file cabinets in your mind and let the learning begin.
Draping on Body Doubles: This patternmaking course is just beginning on Monday. Print out your syllabus and come to class. Be prepared to take notes and register in class.
Upcycling: This Sew Like a Pro course is broken up into 3 parts. The first part is Textiles. On Tuesday, both Upcycling classes will choose the topic of their textile presentation. Just pick a fabric and then follow your syllabus as to what to talk about. Each discussion will be about 10 minutes. I will see if I can get you into the computer laboratory for research. Besides starting our Textile projects, we will be starting our Sew Like a Pro portfolios. This past weekend, there was a fandango to buy fabrics and supplies for this. Pre-shrink everything before you come to class. Check your closet for 2 to 3 items that we can upcycle into 1 item. If you can’t find anything, there is always the thrift shops. You will find lots of things there……….
Flat Pattern Manipulation: Come to class with your double laminated french curves cut. You can finish up smoothing the curves in class, with a nail file. We will also be tracing our 5 piece master collection onto pattern paper. We will then tape the pieces together and begin to true everything up so that it fits your chosen half scale dress form. You will learn a few patternmaking techniques. The term of the day will be “Walk Off.” From your trued up and walked off pattern, you will be producing a sample toile.
Sewing Fundamentals 1 (Sew Fun 1): Come to class with your fabrics pre-shrunk and patterns all cut. Pre-shrink your interfacings in a clean sink. Directions for all of this, are in your syllabus. Remember: Stabilizer is NOT pre-shrunk. Bring all your supplies. You will be learning more about grainlines, and layouts.
Some interesting Links:
Sewing Machine Parts Online This site has great parts for older sewing machines and fantastic YouTube Educational Videos. Good Site to Know about.
Wawak.com This site has sewing supplies at great prices.
Welcome to the Fall 2016 Semester !!!! To the right, you will find all the syllabi for my fall 2016 courses. Download, Print and read your needs. Sometimes there is more than one item to download and print. Check the download and link pages. I will meet you all in class. I don’t write to the blog weekly, anymore. Time is the issue. I write when there is something that you need to know. So it is a good idea to subscribe to the blog. It’s easy. Just add your email address to the box on the right.
Note to my Summer 2016 Sew Like a Pro Fussy Cutting Course: I tried to contact Simon Helberg concerning our plaid shirts. CBS got the email. I don’t know if he got the email. I tried.
Here are some interesting links and things to ponder as we begin our educational journey together.
http://wapo.st/2bZvvbT?tid=ss_mail Thank you, Maureen for this interesting article concerning why clothes are not selling because of poor construction, bad fit, and not up to style.
http://www.wawak.com This is a fabulous site from Maureen, where you can get sewing supplies and equipment at reasonable prices.
If anyone has a sewing/patternmaking idea for the blog, see me in class. Maybe, you can be a guest blogger.
Seems like much is breaking up and being re-invented — housing, transportation, communication, business, working and us, too. So we’re looking for new common denominators. It’s time to identify new “dominant ideals”, key pieces of the zeitgeist. DI’s are attitudes and trends which don’t just appear three times in one arena to be declared official but simultaneously in divergent arenas — they become that which we take for granted. For instance, the minimalist thing. Clean communication on small screens has led to the cleaning away of anything extraneous, anywhere — minimal design now a mindset. Re-invention is brewing — some of the indicators:
A possible female President. This would mean a renewed attention to dressing and it’s meaning, less reliance on old luxury label loyalty. Non-verbal communication will include clothes more — they are armor and they telegraph the punch. The DI: Custom cut power jackets — and custom cut boardroom clout to go with. Keyword now: Custom. Proof: The New Age of Power Dressing and Why the Pantsuit?
To press the point, check The Suit That Couldn’t Be Copied and look very carefully at what custom clothes can deliver for a man — works even better for women, more to work with. One word: competition. It is fierce and clothes are a tool. See book review below.
The emergence of developing countries and free trade means more textile related primary skills go to market. Africa’s growing fashion scene is an example, which coupled with Black Lives Matter here, will change the RTW mix. The DI: Ethnic cuts and patterns, textile based design. Africa Fashion Week, London, Sept. 9/10, 2016.
Authenticity. Greater demand for authentically usable clothes means swimsuits you can swim in — Feetz, shoes you can walk in.When the practical seems novel, you know fashion-as-theater has met the wall. The DI: The Sensible Look. Constructed. Serviceable, Long lasting and even Military.
Less stigma. More adaptive clothing, called ‘health wear’, driven by those aging-still-working types and the Internet’s niche markets for very personal needs. The DI: Dignity for more people. See: Magna Ready and Care & Wear.
Living things. Greater understanding ofhuman consequences to living things means more conscientious choices for animals, plants, water, air — and other people. The DI: Knowing who or what paid for your clothes — and how much. (The tiny fleece fibers on the left and other synthetics are in the ocean — fish ingest them and perish.)
Aging Millennials. They are, you know. They are the new dominant demographic so make way and cheer them on! Their DI: They’re smarter, less pretentious and more careful than you think. Lessons have been learned.