This coming week, is the end of Sewing Fundamentals 1: The Sewing Techniques Portfolio. Last week, we learned how to make three types of pockets, and we learned how to hand hem. We also practiced blind hemming with a sewing machine. I personally do not like this technique, but it is good for curtains and drapes. On Monday, we will be learning three ways to input a zipper and we will be having buttonhole practice. On Tuesday, your portfolios are due during class. Class pictures will be taken. The week after this, will start Sewing Fundamentals 2: Apparel Construction. Sewing Fundamentals is now taught in 2 parts. Each part will teach you to sew. So don’t worry if you are just coming on board to learn. Print, read your syllabus and come to class.
In our Computer Patternmaking Class, we are now back in room 208, to begin computer patterning our final project with Patternmaker. For the past three weeks, we made muslin toiles to ensure that our measurements were inputted in the program correctly. We worked on our final croqui images so that we knew what our final project will look like. AND we made quarter size patterns of what we need to do in Patternmaker. What creativity !!!!! How exciting !!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqEuVgO8Rno The Joan Dress – This video is over an hour. I have NO IDEA why it is called the Joan Dress. I just could NOT resist putting this video in my blog. She follows her pattern guide to sew the dress. And she does an excellent job on putting in the back zipper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9faErEnVb8s Ever wonder how a professional dress form is made? Well here is your chance to see a video on it. This video is for Alva Forms. Get a cup of coffee and sit and relax. There is really 2 videos here, back to back. The first one, is a commercial for the second one. Enjoy !!!!
I find my motivational quotes from the tag that hangs on the kind of tea I like. The company’s name is Good Earth. Here is my last motivational quote for the week: The author is unknown. Don’t let someone dim your light, simply because it’s shining in their eyes.
I hope you are all busy making Halloween Costumes !!! And remember, Just because Halloween falls on a Saturday night, doesn’t mean that you can go crazy. I want you all safe and back in class on Monday, November 2.
Sewing Fundamentals Portfolio: Can you believe that this class has only 2 more weeks in it????? This past week, we learned how to make and insert a collar in a jacket. Last Thursday, we mastered closures, patches, sequins and beads. Next week will practice sewing 3 different kinds of pockets and how to hem things, 5 different ways with 4 different stitches.
This is the final week in room 209 for Computer Patternmaking. By the end of the week, we will have completed and fit our slopers, tweaked our measurements, and designed our final garments on our croqui. The first week in November, we are back in the computer classroom ready to design our final garment patterns in Patternmaker !!!! (www.patternmakerusa.com)
Great Links !!!!!!
fa 15 ceramics fundraiser If you get a chance, Go to ECC and support this fundraiser !!!! For artisan holiday gifts, you just can’t beat this !!!!!!
Rrom Threads Magazine online: How to Achieve Ideal Sewing Machine Thread Tension
Balanced thread tension.
Poor thread tension on a machine-sewn seam can result in an unstable seam, puckering, or just plain unattractive stitching. Perfect machine stitches interlock smoothly and look the same on both sides of the fabric. If you see small loops on the right or wrong side, the thread tension isn’t correct.
The red stitching is the upper thread; the black is the bobbon thread. The tension is balanced.
A tension precheck
A number of factors can throw off thread tension besides the machine’s tension settings. Before trying to adjust the machine settings, take a look at other issues than can throw off the tension:
Is the sewing machine needle bent or does it have a burr on the tip?
Is the needle the correct size for the fabric?
Is the machine threaded properly? Most machines have thread guides, tension disks, a tension regulator, and a bobbin case spring that controls the bobbin-thread tension. Be sure the machine is threaded correctly. Remember, most tension discs close when the presser foot is down, so be sure to thread the machine with a raised foot. A good habit is to put the spool on the machine, and pull out 18 inches of thread. Hold the thread firmly in your nonthreading hand, so you can “snap” the thread into the tension disks (much like flossing teeth). This ensures the thread is placed correctly in the tension disks.
Does the bobbin have the same weight of thread as on the top spool? Is the thread good quality?
Is the upper thread catching on the thread notch or on another rough spot on the edge of the thread spool?
Did you drop a metal bobbin on a hard floor? If so, nearly invisible damage to it might keep it from working properly.
Are the tension disks clean? Lint sometimes collects in the tension disks. Thread your machine as usual. Pull some thread off the spool in the machine and cut it close to the spool. Tie two or three overhand knots in the thread, and be sure they are tight. Unthread the needle, and pull the knotted thread through the tension disks down by the needle. The tiny knots often catch bits of lint in the tension discs. Remember to cover your machine between uses to prevent dust from collecting in the machine.
Diagnosing faulty thread tension
If you’ve eliminated all of the possibly causes listed above and the tension is still bad, try this diagnostic exercise.
Begin by making test swatches. Get some light-colored fabric. Thread the machine with different colors of thread in the needle and bobbin. Sew 6 inches or so, and look at the fabric’s right and wrong sides.
If there are loops on the right side (red thread with black loops), the upper thread tension is too tight.
If there are loops on the bottom side (black thread with red loops), the bobbin thread tension is too tight.
Most of the time, the upper tension needs to be adjusted.
Adjusting the upper thread tension
When you’re adjusting the upper thread tension on your machine, remember that higher numbers on the dial indicate higher (tighter) tension, and lower numbers indicate lower (looser) tension.
Try changing the tension dial up or down one unit. Sew another line of stitching on your sample to see if the tension is balanced. Continue to change the tension settings until the stitches are balanced and no loops are visible on the top side. Run your fingers over the stitches on both sides of the fabric; they should feel smooth.
Adjusting the bobbin thread tension
To check the bobbin thread tension: If you have a front-loading bobbin, remove the bobbin and its bobbin case from the machine. Be sure the bobbin thread is threaded through the bobbin spring. Holding the thread, release the bobbin case over a padded surface (bobbin cases should not be dropped on a hard surface, as the impact may change how they perform). If the bobbin case falls a couple of inches, the tension is correct. If the bobbin case falls several inches, the bobbin tension is too loose. If the bobbin doesn’t fall at all, the bobbin tension is too tight.
If your machine has a top-loading bobbin with a nonremovable bobbin case, you can’t adjust the bobbin thread tension. Always, balance the tension by adjusting the upper thread. Although you have less control, you can usually set the tension successfully by working with only the upper thread.
When to consult a professional
If you have tried all of these tips and your machine is still not making good stitches, it is time to take it to the shop.
Sometimes “bad” tension is a good thing. When basting a garment, change the tension so the stitches are loose. After the seams are permanently stitched, removing the basting stitches is fast and easy. Just remember to correct the tension before you sew more seams. Contributor: Ruth Ciemnoczolowski
There IS class on Monday !!!! Yes, I know, it is Columbus Day. BUT….I expect to see in you all in class. We will have a delightful time !!!! This past Saturday, I went to LA with Sew Pro’s. What a fun day it was !!!!! Of course, I spent money. It is a good thing, that Sew Pro’s doesn’t do this trip more than twice a year.
Portfolio Class: Last week we seamed up our half size jacket. We learned seam finishes. We practiced 7 seams. We still have 4 seams to learn. We will get there. This Monday, we will not be learning seams. We will be learning all about what sergers can do. Bring all your cut 9 by 4 inch pieces. We will learn the difference between 4-thread, 3-thread, 2-thread, rolled hem, and the cover stitch. We will see a power point on how to read Commercial Pattern Envelopes, so bring your Apparel Construction patterns. On Tuesday, bring your machines and all your supplies. We are going to make a half-size skirt. AND we will learn all about sleeves. Fun packed LEARNING days……
Patternmaker Class: This weekend, you needed to plot your patterns at Fed Ex Kinkos or Staples. We will now begin the process of cutting out our patterns and making a sloper toile to achieve a great fit. Along with the 4 classroom nights to do this, you MUST design your final project. Draw out 5 garment pieces on 5 different croqui. We will pick 2 or 3 of them, together, depending on your skill level. I can ONLY help you with the patterning of your final project, if I understand your croqui final pictures. These 5 pictures, just need to be sketches. The final croqui designs are the ones that will be colored. I will scan them all into the computer for safe keeping.
Elo has helped you plan your designs. Here are 2 Chanel runway shows for you to look at. I am thrilled that Elo shared this with you. Get Inspired !!!!!
Motivational Quote: Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass. It’s about learning to dance in the rain. Unknown Author.
Learning to sew means that the above problem will never ever happen to you again !!!! Sounds too good to be true??? Come to class and learn !!!! Knowledge is power !!!! Knowledge is a skill that can be sold for profit in the job market, along with confidence and courage.
Sewing Techniques Portfolio:Last week, we finished up learning all about sewing prep. I hope you all realize how important this is. Without it, nothing, and I do mean nothing, gets done well. And of course, as the instructor, I want all my students to be stopped in their daily routine and asked, “That’s a fantastic shirt, pants vest, etc.” Later on in the semester, you will learn how to fix the problem in the picture. This will occur in Module 2. We also practiced TLC for sewing machines. We learned the difference between basting and default stitching. We mastered a technique to sew knit fabric with a straight stitch sewing machine with the famous 2 x 2 mm stitch. Next week, we will start learning how to do seam finishes and all kinds of crazy seams. Plus we will discover how to handle darts………
Computer Patternmaking: Last week: We started manufacturing our initial sloper garments in our Patternmaker Software. This will be a bodice and a pair of darted pants. Once our personal measurement table checks out, all the macros in Patternmaker are there to be utilized. This week, we will continue with this. By next Thursday, we need to have all the seam allowances, all the text, extra notches put on, and then….we need to place the pattern pieces on 36 inch wide x 108 inches long “paper” inside the Patternmaker program. Then we get to PDF this. Put it on your USB and off you go to get the pattern printed at your local Staples or Fed Ex.
Remember: Next Saturday, October 10, is a Fandango Field Trip to the LA Garment District. If you want to go, call Sew Pro’s to pay for your ticket on the bus. 1-858-279-2500.
Sensible Advice: For the school district and all of us !!!!!
From: Kent Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2015 4:18 PM Subject: Email, Internet and Identity Reminders
For District-wide Distribution:
Every Fall term, I like to send out a reminder that hackers, spammers and identity thieves have spent their summer thinking about us!
Please remember to be careful and to scrutinize the emails you receive and open. If you don’t know the sender, or you rarely, if ever, receive emails from the sender and the subject doesn’t look right, then don’t open it.
Also, don’t click on any internet hyperlinks within the emails if they look suspicious. (Remember, you can usually move your mouse curser over the hyperlink to see the actual URL. If you don’t recognize the URL and/or it does not match the sender email domain, it’s probably not legitimate and the email should be deleted.)
Remember my Internet motto. Whether from an email or a website, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!
District IT and all other reputable companies will never ask you for your network or login account ID, or your password via email or on a web form. Please remember this whether you are at work, or on your home computer doing your personal business. Your name and email address are usually not considered Personal Identifiable Information, but your address, phone number, bank accounts, credit cards, mother’s maiden name, passwords, etc., should always be protected.
Lastly, please protect your email account and never share your password. One compromised district email account which is used for spamming can impact our “email reputation” causing Internet Service Providers (ISPs) such as Hotmail, Gmail, Yahoo, etc., to either slow down our email delivery (referred to as tar pitting) or block it completely for a day or two. You can imagine the panic this causes for our faculty and students at the beginning of the term!
Anyhow, I hope I haven’t scared you too much but safe computing has to be a way of life as our personal digital footprints continue to grow exponentially.
Learning takes place every time we get together. It’s exciting to build upon. Remember Life isn’t about waiting for the learning to come to you…..YOU need to chase the learning. Store it in the file cabinets of your mind. It WILL come out and be very useful.
Portfolio Class: Last week, we became the master of our grainlines. We learned how to lay and cut fabric. We practiced fusing, and serging for the first time. This coming week, we will learn all about marking our fabrics. We will discover how easy it is to take care of our sewing machines. AND We will begin to sew.
Computer Patternmaking Class: We started off last week, by learning how to work some of the icons in Patternmaker. In Thursday’s class, we tried to input our measurements and make our first patterns. We learned how to make measurement adjustments. You gotta understand that if you get the measurements correct, you can open any pattern in YOUR SIZE. Yes, it will need to be tweaked, but NOTHING major. YOU will be able to redesign the patterns to achieve your own looks. It’s easy. We just need to get our measurements in correctly. Making a sloper will be the test of our measurement accuracy. This week, we will continue the process and learn to use some more tools.
Things are finally coming back to normal. YEAH !!!!!
Sewing Fundamentals: Last week, Jeanne had you cut your portfolio patterns and showed you a power point of supplies that you will need to buy. Then last Tuesday, we went on a field trip to buy supplies. Not many students showed, due to the rain, but a good time was had by all who came !!!! This coming week, we will learn how to lay out and cut our patterns correctly on grain. What fun !!!! Here is what I wrote in the syllabus, about the upcoming week.
Week 3: Mon Sept 21 – FabricPrep work is the most important part of sewing: Totally take notes on this lesson if you come unprepared !!!! Truing your fabric on grain, Layout your portfolio patterns on your preshrunk fabric. (View the pictures: Finding Grainlines & Layout.) Remember to: 1. Lay everything on grain. 2. Get an okay from the instructor to cut. Production Term of the Day is commandment #12: Respect Thy Grainlines. Remember to cut your interfacing: WOVEN: Back neck facing, Front facing, Collar, V-neck facing, Two 8 ½ x 11 sheets (woven buttonholes and closures). KNIT interfacing for one 9 x 4 inch pattern pieces. Check what is written on your pattern pieces. Homework: What you do not finish in class, you will need to do at home. Come to class tomorrow with everything cut out on grain. Remember to bring Scrap Fabric to all classes plus all your cut out fabric pattern pieces and patterns. Individual and Group Help.
Tues Sept 22 – MorePrep Work: Demo & Do: Fusing interfacing with a press cloth, Serging, and Marking: Darts: regular 4 & fisheye 2, Dots (inseam pocket, shoulder on sleeve), lines, corners, swirl, wrist ruffle. Commandment #14: Thine Iron is Thy Friend. Learn to give TLC to the school’s sergers. Homework: Finish up what you didn’t get to complete in class. Individual and Group Help. Remember to bring Scrap Fabric to all classes plus all your cut out fabric pattern pieces and patterns. Individual and Group Help.
Computer Patternmaking with Patternmaker: Last week, we made our croqui pictures. These will be used to design on. Remember, to draw as if someone else will be making up your garment. We also started researching what we want to design. For the next 2 weeks, we will have an introduction to Patternmaker’s icons and menus.
The right hand column is all updated with Fall 2015 information. Print your needs without scaling or fit to page. I will meet you the week September 8th with Bells on my Toes !!!!!! Note: Normally, I write to the blog, once a week. Usually on Sunday night.
In the meantime, Enjoy the links:Pattern Reading + Starting a Business from different points of view
Thursday is the final day of summer school. This makes me very very sad. This will be the last official A-Team email until the Fall semester begins on September 8. Keep checking back for the new syllabi, patterns, and other updates.
For the next 3 classes, we will be sewing away on our shirts and pants. When you are done, by fabric and start another project. Your choice. I will be here to help you. Next Thursday, we will be having a pot luck in the student lounge. There is a sign up sheet in the classroom. I will be taking pictures of your completed outfits. Without those pictures, I can’t prove your grade. So come dressed to our Pot Luck !!!!! What fun !!!!!
Welcome To The Embroidery Coach!This is for all you entrepreneurs !!!!
I want to personally welcome you to the “Embroidery Coach Family” and give you your first of 3 embroidery tips that you will be receiving each week!
The #1 strategy that is holding you back is your mindset! This was a huge struggle for me when I first started my embroidery business and it lasted for almost 15 years! I was convinced that I had to be the lowest priced embroiderer to get the work and stay busy! That mindset almost cost me my entire business!
As a woman, I did not value my time! It was hard for me to ask for the money and price my embroidery as it should have been priced. I collected everyone else’s price list and priced my embroidery to match or just a little lower. I almost lost my entire business as a result of it! I was offering very high quality embroidery at a price that was as low or lower than the embroiderer that was offering low quality. How stupid was that!
I did not realize that what I had to offer was a product that should have been priced much higher than the average local embroiderer because of my quality and service. It took my accountant practically batting me in the head to get this point across. Either I price my embroidery as I should or close the doors! I was not making any money and I was never going to make any money if I did not change my mindset and my prices. I just knew in my own mind that people would not pay those high prices!
I was so wrong! I created a whole new pricing structure that was much higher. I did lose some of my customers but they were only the customers that wanted the lowest price. When I changed my total mindset and started promoting my quality product and excellent customer service I had plenty of the work!
The secret is not to project your thinking & feelings onto your customers! My mindset held me back for 15 years! Do not let that happen to you!