Improving the Performance of the Industrial Yamata Overlocks in WCC room 209

Words of Wisdom for All Sewing Machines by John of Central Sewing 

Using poor quality thread with the industrial Yamata Overlock Sewing Machines is one of the primary causes for frequent thread breaks. Many other industrial and domestic sewing machines will experience the same problem with low quality thread. John from Central Sewing offers his advice for choosing high quality thread and avoiding some common serger problems.

What Constitutes Good Thread?  

Not thread that cost 2 for a $1.00. Not thread from a swap meet. Not Talon thread. Not Sure-Lock thread. Not thread that has been exposed to sunlight for any length of time. (This breaks down the thread.)   

John: Cheap threads are not smooth threads and get hung up in the threading and cause skipped stitches. 

Here are some good brand names to look for: Gutermann, Maxi Lock, Coats & Clark Commercial Overlock Thread, Mettler, Superior Threads (Sergin’ General).

You can find most of these brands in the stores or buy these from www.wawak.com. Other brands you may need to Google. 

John: Do not buy threads that are 6000 yards on a spool. This is a school, not a factory. Buy thread that does not have over 3000 yards wound on it. The weight of the thread on the cone can cause a problem. They are too big and get old before they are used up. 

When you go and look at these threads, look at how the thread is wound on the cone. Does the top layer of thread sometimes get caught on the layer below when you unwind the thread?  Or does it get caught in the tension settings as it passes through the thread tension? It is not the tension settings that are causing these problems. Can you see any rough slub spots in the thread? Are they wound on the cone with a smooth even tension that easily lets them unwind? 

Is there a space at the bottom of the cone with no thread? You need about ½ inch of just space at the bottom of the cone. Without this space, problems are sure to develop as the threads gets wrapped underneath the spool.  

Here is what an overlock thread display looks like at Central Sewing. The thread is not inexpensive, however, you will never regret spending the money.

John: The threads wrap around the bases of the cones and cause the threads to break.

Here is what we will do to use up the industrial threads we have before we buy new good thread. Insert an empty cone inside the middle of the thread spool. This will help the thread unwind and not get hung up under the weight of the spool of thread.

Buy great brand name threads and the Yamata and Juki Overlocks will work for many years to come.  

Thank you, John, for all your insight!

Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky – Jimi Hendrix

Hello Summer 2018!

This summer, we will be learning some more Sewing Operations for your Portfolio. We will also be making a long sleeve shirt.

Check out the syllabus in the right hand column. Download and read it. Enjoy the learning journey.

This spring, I demo’d draping for high school students.  If I would have known this was happening, I could not have done the following.  See me in action.

 

 


Be Safe.

Joanie

 

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Spring 2018 Semester Courses

Hello A-Team:   Welcome to Spring 2018!!!!

I am in the process of editing the blog’s right hand column with the new spring 2018 syllabi.  What is there now, is just place holders.  Just before class at the end of January, I will do the final updates.  Taking class with me, means that you are starting a journey to gain knowledge to better yourself, or to update your workforce skills for either a career or to start a new business.  This semester, I am teaching Computer Patternmaking with a very student friendly program:  Patternmaker.  Check them out!!!!!  Press on the link.  The Professional Studio uses CAD tools, just like the big boys in the Apparel Industry.  My other course will be Sew Like a Pro.  In this course, we will be exploring textiles and sewing a garment with fabric that is difficult to handle.

The learning will be NON-stop this semester.

Come for the ride!

Sincerely,

Joanie

 

Welcome to Fall 2017: You Just Gotta Laugh !!!!

Hello Fall Semester A-Team Students:

Apparently, I can not add anything to the website.  There seems to be a major glitch.  You can still get into the Downloads menu and print your Sewing Fundamentals 1 Patterns.  Remembers to do this without scaling or shrink to fit.  You can also print:  Toubleshooting your Sewing Machine.  I will be prepared to give you a syllabus tomorrow in the Sewing Fundamentals 1 class.   Wednesday, the Drafting syllabus will be given out. 

Enjoy the rest of your holiday.

Sincerely,  

Joan McKenna

Fashion Designer Creates a Dress in a Few Minutes

View the video/article to see how Ugandan fashion designer Latif Madoi creates a dress in a few minutes!

http://www.pulse.ng/fashion/latif-madoi-meet-fashion-designer-who-creates-dresses-in-a-few-minutes-id7058854.html

The raved designer already dubbed “Afro-Fashion Magician” by the BBC is one of Uganda’s most revered designer known to have designed for the top late Reggae singer Lucky Dube, Latif Madoi shows his skill at his periodic “fast fashion” shows where he demonstrates live sewing, taking a piece of fabric and creating dresses out of them in a matter of minutes.

Life isn’t about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself. –George Bernard Shaw

                          Hello A-Team:

Summer will be all about Fundamentals of Patternmaking:  Draping.  Pad out an old dress form to be an exact duplicate of you with a little ease.  Use any edition of Connie Amaden- Crawford’s The Art of Fashion Draping, and learn to create using industry standard draping techniques.

Syllabus is in the right hand column.

Be Safe,

Joanie

Paris & Amsterdam

Hello A-Team:

The following group of pictures are a bit mixed up.  I could not get the pictures to move where I wanted them to go.  After a while, on a tour, you begin to forget where you are, what time it is, and events seem to merge.  Enjoy.

Men’a Jacket circa: 1780. Worn with it’s waistcoat, shown in next picture. Clothworkers Center, London.
Notice that the back is way shorter than the front. This is something that is popular today.
Roberto Cavalli. March 2017. Paris. So it is my opinion, that in men’s clothes, history is is repeating itself. I love this. I would wear it.
This is an offering from the House of Chanel. Paris. Notice how the bleach design is matched directly over the seams. I did not catch the price. I wonder, how it was done? Intriguing. N’est pas?
I saw this piece. It is only about 4 inches long. Unbelievable. Paris. Next door to the Louve.
This is a doll carrying case from the Tassen Museum of Bags & Purses in Amsterdam. 19th century.
Women’s Fine Sewing Purse. Tassen Museum.
Ivory Purse. 1920’s. Tassen.
Sewing Basket. 19th Century. Tassen. I have no idea what the stars were for. All I can think of, is that they wound thread around them.
I had a definite problem in Chanel. I just could not stop crying. These are the steps where Chanel showed her collections. They took pictures of me and my daughter. No idea if we have the same or different kinds or cancer.
Kate would not get this, from Agent Provocateur, Paris. It is from Vivienne Westwood’s son’s collection.
Paris Chocolatier. There is one on every corner. This was strict window shopping. All three pictures are from the same shop.
Yes, the giant chess pieces are chocolate, too. Fabulous!!!
Professional egg boiler. Time your own, just the way you like your eggs. Paris.
16th – 18th century purse handles. The fabric purses just didn’t survive. Tassen.
Paris Chocolatier. There is one on every corner. This was strict window shopping. All three pictures are from the same shop.
Tassen Museum. Amsterdam. Drawers. The words on the chest of drawers indicated what was stored in the drawers.
Tassen Museum. Amsterdam. Drawers. The words on the chest of drawers indicated what was stored in the drawers. I could find no date on this. I suspect it was made during WW1. There is NOTHING plastic about this. Just great inginuity.
Fish Delicatessen. Amsterdam. The husband & wife are the owners. Everything was so fresh here.
Lingerie Fabric Shop in Amsterdam. Great prices.
Part of button wall in Amsterdam’s Fabric Shop.
Fabric Shop Sign. Amsterdam.
I took this picture for Diana, our hatmaker instructor. I think it is 19th century top hat mold-stretcher.
Paris sign for fresh fish.
This is a picture of the display by the sign. Again: Everything was very fresh.
Kosher Butcher Shop in Paris.
Paris. Grocery store shelf signage. To my surprise, it was all digital. I have not seen this in the states…..yet…..
At a Paris dinner we saw this framed lace. Very intricate. No idea if it is lingerie or part of a dress.
One of the buildings from the Louve, Paris.
The pyramid. Where you buy your tickets and get into the Louve. Paris. I never made it inside. I was in awe of the Musee de Arts Decortifs, which houses the Musee de Mode & Textiles. The museum I was at, was next door. Separate entrance. Separate entrance fee.
Inside the Musee de Arts Decortifs, which houses the Musee de Mode & Textiles, you were not allowed to take pictures of the exhibits. Behind these doors, was an exhibit of cross dressers, LGBTQ, thoughout the ages. The exhibition was cataloged. I bought the book which was written in French. It was an amazing exhibit. Joan of Arc, was condemned because she liked wearing men’s breeches. And she would not give it up.
8 hour latex class in Amsterdam. You need plenty of ventilation to do this. Best learning experience of the tour !!!
In the latex class, lots of the ladies made panties. These are for a wonder woman costume.
Amsterdam bistro presentation of plate of raviolis.
Amsterdam bistro presentation of Cesear Salad.
This little shelf sign, is in our Amsterdam Mercure Hotel. It says alot with very little words.

Bath & London

Hello A-Team:

I could not get the images to turn or align.  At least you get to see some incredible things.  I miss you all !!!!  Joanie

I’ve fixed the photos. — John   THANK YOU, JOHN!!   JMcK

Tomorrow, the group travels to Paris.  Hopefully by the next post, I will be able to turn the pictures upright.